a little rivulet called 'warmer bach' ( warm brook ) running through the spa resort of schlangenbad.
schlangenbad might be my absolute favourite place to visit in the western part of the taunus mountains ( also called the rheingau mountains ). it is pretty close to wiesbaden ( about 12 km ), but still secluded enough to not draw the masses to it, and as a lover of peace and tranquility, this is absolutely perfect for me! the village is nestled into a little valley that is basically surrounded by three 500 meter high mountains, therefore sheltering it from 'the outside' quite well. it's a spa resort, actually, one of germany's smallest, specializing on treatments with warm silicic acid-rich waters that have their source on the village site. that's why you can find two thermal baths in schlangenbad, an outdoor and an indoor facility. i yet have to visit the 'äskulaptherme' ( difficult at the moment, of course, since swimming facilities are all closed right now due to the coronavirus ), but i have been to the thermal lido before and loved it! i think it's the only lido in the area i actually liked from the get-go, that's probably because it's so small and relatively laid-back when it comes to its visitors. it's known to be a lido for 'older people', not catering very much to families or young humans. people who visit the lido want to experience a respite from everyday stresses and are not here to have an activity-filled stay. the water basin is very small ( it's big enough to swim a few proper rounds, though ), and there's no diving board for courageous teens to jump into the 27 degree water. everything in the lido is laid-out for relaxing and unwinding! sure, families with little kids do visit it as well, since it has some children's facilities, but the few times i made my way there it wasn't an annoying amount of screaming kids ( actually, the kids were all very well-behaved 😂 ). i guess because it has so little activity to offer to the masses, you can view this as a very lucky circumstance when you crave a less busy lido experience ( which i crave all the time lol ).
i think many people view schlangenbad as a sleepy, kind of removed place that seems a little forgotten and therefore not worth visiting, but that's exactly what drives me to it! i think that it's still a place for cure and wellness and healing might be what keeps it from getting drowned in oblivion. there are several clinics residing in the village that ensure a steady inflow of visitors. no, schlangenbad is not for the venturous, thrill-seeking ruffian or the party hungry bon vivant, but rather for those who need quiet places to recover from maladies, illnesses and stress-inducing life-styles. it's for people who want to shut out the world for a while, for the introverted, the escapists, the tired ones. i am of the opinion that such places definitely need to exist and are essential even. i know for me personally, schlangenbad definitely is all of that, a place to come back to again and again to find a certain kind of peace, a peace you can attribute to its remote location, its enchanting surroundings and the calmness of being a place of regeneration and recovery.
the history of schlangenbad is also very interesting, with it having been a highly sought-after place for cure-seeking rich and noble people in the past. it lead to the erection and development of various luxurious buildings and dwellings in the village, which give it a charm that is very rare for a place that only has about 940 inhabitants. but not only those old relicts are making it special, modern times brought new influences with them as well and you can find those scattered all over the place, bringing brutalism and contemporary architecture into the village scenery. there are some odd forgotten and abandoned places as well, perfect for anybody who loves to discover these hidden gems.
so, obviously, you can see why i love to return to schlangenbad 😅 that, and the fact that it's surrounded by extensive woods, charming rock formations and many routes for walking and strolling, it all contributes to me seeking out this place continuously ❤
for this particular visit i chose a day that involved some rain/sun mix kinda weather, which was actually really nice, since august days are often so sweltering. a lovely light summer rain is something i like very much, it freshens up the air a bit and creates an atmosphere that is therapeutic somehow. the sound of rain is soothing, and walking through a warm summer downpour makes your senses more alert, at least that's what i am always experiencing. it smells of petrichor and essential oils from all the plants that take in the much-needed moisture, smells that contribute to a feeling of well-being. did you know that summer rain is said to also have anti-inflammatory properties? one more reason to enjoy all the summer rain opportunities given to you! i know for sure that i will try to use this knowledge this coming year 😊
the warmer bach is actually an overflow stream that is fed with water from the thermal springs. it does have a source still further up the mountains, but the creek towards the village goes dry in summer often. so, what you see here is basically the water of the thermal springs.
a slim annex building tells a vague tale of a former pension that was built in 1850 ( later enhanced in 1892 ). the clinkered fundament part hadn't been developed into a habitable condition yet, but served as the fundament for an on-top terrace - a terrace that was used by the in-house confectionery and bakery, serving guests exquisite pastries and delicacies. can you imagine that when you look at this building now? the upper half of it was a later extension, now it is the second floor of what seems to be a residential building these days. the column in the front seems to have carried a statue once.
the beautiful herz-jesu-kirche ( church of the sacred heart ). it was built from 1895 to 1897 and sports neo-gothic elements. it stands directly next to the spa park.
when you continue to walk through the spa park you will eventually encounter the äskulaptherme ( the indoor thermal baths i mentioned before ). it is named after the aesculapian snake, which can be found in schlangenbad, which is a little curiousity as these kinda snakes usually don't live up so far north, but the climatic conditions are perfect here for this 'little' creature, that can grow as big in length as myself ( i am 1,58 for good measure 😂 ). the name schlangenbad literally translates to snake bath, obviously the snake inspired the people to keep it as their heraldic animal. and before you ask, the snake is not an introduced reptile to the location, it's really been living here for centuries, probably even longer! the reason why, is the aforementioned remoteness and isolation of the place, but also because of the warm springs and the heat-storing properties of the taunus bedrocks. i have yet to encounter one of these fascinating and harmless creatures, it is definitely on my list of things i want to see before i die 😅
this pathway bypasses the thermal baths ( which, by the way, was built in 1970, architect unknown ). for some this might be a particularly ugly concrete design element, but you know me, i love me some good concrete situation ;) especially if it's so brightly coloured! also,who noticed the big ass sunflower on the right side ( not blooming, though :P )?
view back to the thermal baths. the terraced building in the back is from the 1970ies, too, it was built in a style i know too well from some wiesbaden neighborhoods. i am wondering whether there's a connection, maybe the same architect? i just know that when you live there, you probably have a lot of sun and a pretty view on schlangenbad 😂 ( i actually would like an appartment there, somehow? )
a random flower/concrete combo i liked very much ❤
this is one of the local clinics i mentioned earlier, a rehabilitation clinic for rheumatological, psychosomatic and gynecological maladies. the building was constructed in 1974, falling into line with the thermal baths and the appartment building in this particular area of schlangenbad.
it is a pretty ugly building, but ugliness does not deter me from finding beauty in its clear lines and the concrete elements and also the sunny bright facade colour!
the more luxurious building in the back is a relict of the glorious times when the rich and the famous came to schlangenbad to cure themselves from their maladies. it's the former park hotel ( now psychiatric clinic ) from 1912, planned by eugen rückgauer. truthfully, the building is not exactly from a time where the really big fish came to schlangenbad ( which was actually in the 18th & 19th century ), but it was still a time that was more prosperous for the community than it is now.
the rehab clinic definitely looks like it's seen better days, but somehow that makes up the charm?
the layout of the clinic consists of three hexagonal parts put together, which gives it an interesting look. there's lots of edges and angles, typical for brutalist architecture.
i quite liked this strange additional annex with the little bridge. still wondering what it is. maybe a little chapel?
i mentioned before that close to the rehab clinic you can find the park hotel. in front of that hotel a run-down building tells of a bygone era, in which spa guests sauntered around and went shopping for exquisite and selected little knickknacks after they went through treatments etc. it's the spa hotel colonnades! they are currently vacant, no one buys some fancy clothes or some souvenirs or enjoys a little cup of coffee with some cake on the side anymore. it's been left to deteriorate for quite a few years already, there seem to be problems with the owner and investor ( and the landmarks preservation council ) who bought the hotel premises ( which the colonnades are part of ). the colonnades were also built in 1912, together with the hotel.
empty shop windows reflect the greenery of the garden behind me that separates the colonnades from the park hotel. peep the eerie dalí art that stares back at you and states: you are afraid. well, no, but, maybe? 😂
i loved that little detail ❤
the colonnade into the other direction, where the refreshment stand is located ( with a fountain ). i am not sure if the fountain is still working, it looked like it was in a good condition, though. it's just a little sad to me that it's not open to the public like it should be in a spa location with such a long tradition.
mode des colonnades. colonnade fashion. i should've probably gotten a little closer so you could properly see what i wore and then this picture would actually make more sense, but i think i am glad i didn't, my outfit that day wasn't the most fashionable 😂
peek inside one of the empty shops.
dry leaves were scattered on the ground, making the structure appear even more forlorn.
door details! flakey paint is one of my favourite things!
the former refreshment hall. here you can really see the bad state the colonnades are in. i kinda wish they'd restore at least this little part of the colonnades and give back some proper polish and brilliance. the lamp on the ceiling still indicates that this might've been a nice little place once.
more old door handles! i loved this set 😍
the strange heating unit near the windows is a very questionable element to me, as are the ugly floor tiles. there's just so much wrong with the whole structure, even the windows on the right don't quite fit the era, probably were a 1970ies addition once or something. i don't hate all about this, though, i actually like the fountain ( which i am not sure is actually installed ), the window partitions in the back and the sweet candelabra.
the fountain. it has some tiny snakes embossed into the base 🐍 this piece feels very art nouveau to me, and i wonder if it's actually an original fixture from 1912!?
a better look at the structure and the patterns of the back windows! you know how much i love different structures, right? i am almost sure these were installed in the 1970ies as well, i recognize this style from various GDR design work i have seen over the years in my homeland of thuringia, and my parent's house also sported equal glass tiles and they built their house in the 1970ies, too, so i think it's not too unthinkable that similar work was made in the western parts of germany as well.
the view towards the little garden area between the hotel and colonnades. the ceiling lamps reminded me a lot of art deco design, even though i think they were not original ( art deco is more of a 1920ies to 1940ies style and the colonnades were built in 1912 ). maybe the design style of the 1970ies plays a big part here, too, as it seemed to have been a time with a lot of construction activitiy in schlangenbad?
another look into a vacant showroom. i somehow really like the reflection of the garden area in this picture!
the sun came out for a short moment and illuminated this sweet part of the colonnades!
found some juicy painted grapes in that particular corner, too.
they were afraid. probably because they'll get erased and will be forgotten forever if someone finally decides to breathe back air into the colonnades. until then... they need to hold on.
i did like that neo-classical corridor quite a bit. it reminded me of the colonnades near the spa hotel in wiesbaden, and apparently they were the inspiration behind the schlangenbad ones.
for a last time i looked back over the garden area towards the rehab clinic and was surprised by how much i loved that view! especially with the ancient fountain creating such an interesting contrast. this fountain probably dates back to the 16th or 17th century. researchers are not quite sure about when it actually was created.
eventually i left the colonnades and neared the back part of the spa park that would eventually cross over into woodland. caught a hoverfly trying to sip some alien botany nectar 😉 couldn't figure out what kind of plant this was, so alien it stays!
i really adore this image ❤
the warmer bach again.
it originates on the northern slope of the mountain range dreibornsköpfe and eventually flows into the wallufbach further down in schlangenbad. the spa park here is rather overgrown, very green and lush! but it also appears a little less polished than in the center of schlangenbad. which i like a lot, but some people might find it a little forlorn.
the warmer bach also feeds this little pond... and if you look closer, you can see some goldfish in there 💛
i tried to take some photos, but from outside the pond it just doesn't look that amazing, haha.
also found a firebug in the wet moss nearby! i love their patterns and the colour they have. a very good way to not get eaten by birds.
entering the adelheidtal ( adelheid valley ). it is wildly romantic, this little valley, with small paths meandering through the woods, passing by some lovely rock formations.
it started to rain again, and the sound of water dropping down on the leaves of the trees and bushes was absolutely meditative!
cozy little place in the woods. i always love to stumble upon those little twig installations. i think they're made by kids, at least i hope so, because otherwise this would mean something more creepy is happening here 😂
wonderful, dark green moss!
a fallen old beech tree. ( i think ). this was very close to a historic border fortification called 'rheingauer gebück' ( rheingau stoops ), which was made out of stooped beech trees and enclosed the rheingau region for 600 years ( from the 12th century to the 18th ).
i passed by the first rock group in the woods, which i think was a part of the 'wilder mann' rock formation. i am not completely sure though, and will have to go back eventually to refresh my memory ;) there are more rocks all over the adelheidtal, and they are, as a whole, called 'wilde familie' ( wild family ). the wild man is one part of it, then there's another one called 'wilde frau' ( wild woman ) and of course a family would not be a family without kids ( in the traditional sense ) so you can also find some rocks called exactly that, wilde kinder ( wild children ). i really love the concept of all those scattered pieces of rock ( quite big ones, too! ) being a wild family ❤
some cute dead nettle blossoms ( that i love to pluck and then happen to proceed to suckle their nectar 😋 ).
okay, maybe the first few rocks were not part of the wild man, but this boulder defininitely IS the wild man. ( and yes, the sun returned again - it was a wild mix of weather situations as well that day ;P )
the wild man sits at the foot of a super old beech tree and right next to the ( then empty ) riverbed of the warmer bach. ( in summer it seems to be empty quite often, i've also been there in winter one time and the rivulet was existent back then, bubbling happily ).
i quite like the wild man, he is so photogenic!
i mean, come on! especially with this bridge nearby! and with the river flowing, this would be even a much dreamier place!
i did not continue my path to find the wild kids and the wild woman, but instead made a big turn and ended up at the entrance building to the outdoor lido! the building was erected in 1931, so 90 years ago! i constantly have the feeling that buildings from that era are pretty rare, and i think that's because they weren't something that would shake anybody's architectural radars and declare them as exceptionally remarkable. architecture from the 1930ies to me is something of an inbetween architecture, i think the builders were too attached to the old times, though they tried to pair it with some modern elements. in the end, the architecture rarely stood out a lot, so i think they were either forgotten, or eventually remodeled or completely torn down at some point.
but you know, whatever the reason behind the rarity of 1930ies architecture is, in the end some sweet flowers and their blossoms will always sidetrack me from these ponderings and the architecture of the flowers will take its place inside my head. botanic architecture is QUITE exceptional, don't you think? this one is called rosebay willowherb. we germans sometimes call it 'trümmerblumen' ( detritus flowers ), as they were growing heavily on the rubble that was left after the second world war ). that's because they like a lot of space and lots of light to grow and as morbid as that sounds, after everything was bombed out and ruined, they surely had a lot of that to thrive.
and with this curious-looking plant, my little stint in the village of schlangenbad came to a close, but not a forever one. a favourite place only stays a favourite place when you revisit again and again, so, eventually, y'all should stay tuned.
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