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march '19: la source planey & le corbusier's notre-dame-du-haut.

a slight turquoise tint in the planey river.

the pictures in this post are probably my absolute favourites of our france trip last year. we visited two special places on that day, one natural one and one man-made. we started the day off to check out a spring, a very special one, that was advertised to us as very magic on google maps. it said that apparently the water there would show off in a really vibrant turquoise colour, and reading that alone basically sealed the deal for me. the planey river is a small stream ( only about 7 kilometers long! ) that eventually ends up in the rhône river after it confluenced in the semouse river, which flows into the lanterne river, which then ends up in the saône river and that one is the final river that feeds the MUCH bigger rhône which confluences in the mediterranean sea - what a stream network, right? it's often so strange to me how tiny streams can influence much bigger ones which will end up in a huge pool in a totally different region. i look at it like an abstract domino effect, it starts with a source and it ends up in a sea, but not without touching other streams that enrich the final confluence. the junction of so many natural influences is always a little mind-blowing to me, like you learn to see how they inform each other, learn from each other and synthesize to form a bigger picture. i find this incredibly beautiful and grounding.

nearing the source of the river. from this point of view you can only adumbrate the colour of the source...

but the more you got closer the more intense the colouration got.

and then you basically could only stand in awe and silence and simply enjoy the marvellous scenery of the source unravelling right in front of your eyes... 💙

'why is the water so utterly turquoise?', you probably might ask yourself. well, that's because the water is coloured by slightly-oxidized iron sediments of the karst rocks it originates from! by the way, as compelling as the water looks, you should not drink from it! the water's composition is made of salts, calciumcarbonates, calciumsulfates and magnesium in a way that is detrimental to the health of human beings. and i guess the iron inside it also play a huge part in that. apparently drinking it is super laxative 😬

there is a cavern in 32 meters depth and about 185 m from the pit entry ( situated 10 meters down the water ), which can be explored by divers, but only with the permission by official authorities ( apparently the police? ). it seems to be a very dangerous dive, as the ground of the pond is very silty and muddy and apparently there's also some loose sedimentary structure in the cave entry which might crush you if you are not well-traversed in diving and accidentally break it loose. so, despite it looking really damn inviting for taking a swim in an exotic looking pond, i think one should refrain from accessing it 😅

that colour was gorgeous! can you imagine what it looks like when there might be snow around? poppin'! i hear that it's pretty all year round, looking like a magical jungle pond set in the caribbean in summer for example. i really loved the reflections of the trees inside the source bowl and that nature around it was slowly coming alive and gave it all a fresh spring vibe.

the sun illuminated it even more!

mossy greens and turquoise waters 😍

we climbed up a little slope to get a better view from above, and damn well, it didn't disappoint from that view either!

the mysterious looking source also is supposed to have been a site of  witchcraft and sabbats in the 15th & 16th century. many people from the nearby village of anjeux got accused of witchery and devil worshipping and some even got executed for it ( about 25 women of the village - which was a quarter of the actual inhabitants living in it! ). so... knowing that there's such a dark history attached to the source as well, kinda taints the enjoyment of this extraordinary natural sight 😔

tiny ripples...

... and more water magic.

i randomly found this engraved symbol in one of the trees standing up on the slope. anybody knows what it might symbolize? i didn't find anything online. i like to imagine these are some sort of witchy runes, but to be honest, the mirrored small h and also the p is not at all part of the rune alphabet. so... what about an alien language? my fantasy is running wild here. maybe this place is an orientation point for aliens roaming around in the woods? 😂😆

it started to rain a bit, hence the slightly disturbed water ( it was a very inconsistent day weatherwise, it would be really cold, but then sometimes sunny, and other times it would pour down ). there was also a little muddy stream running into the source, probably melting water.

but only a few minutes later the source was brightly lit with sunshine again, enhancing its lovely rich colour.

we could've continued to hike around the woods, but somehow we decided against it and decided to check out an architectural gem in ronchamp - which is 40 minutes away - mind you, we sometimes just drive around and then decide spontaneously what to visit next 😅 but first we ended up making a pitstop near luxeuil-les-bains, at le lac des 7 chevaux. it's a fishing pond basically, directly next to a street leading into luxeuil-les-bains. we only spent about half an hour there, but i still snapped a few pictures anyway. there's not much else to say about the little lake. i'm pretty sure there were some infos on the the parking lot we parked in, but i can't remember any of it. and there's nothing on the internet on it, except that it's perfect for fishing carps and other fish. i remember there being some history on the name of the lake ( lake of the 7 horses ), but my very forgetful mind deleted it all.

the woods next to the lake.

the lake actually is comprised out of two ponds, separated by a levee. the pond you see from the street is not so scenic ( in my opinion ), but the second pond further back inside the woods is a lot more beautiful and tranquil! lots of birches surround the pond, indicating that the scenery must shine in lovely yellows come autumn.

but even in spring, yellows can be found... on the ground! coltsfoot are rearing their cute fluffy heads out of the soil. did you know they are supposed to be super helpful with respiratory problems and are a good aid against coughing? ( but beware, they are also said to be harsh on the liver when overused ) also, people who want to be eco-friendly often use the leaves as toilet paper, as they apparently seem to be very soft ( the leaves develop and grow big AFTER the blossoms wilted - mostly from the month of april on ). so... in case you have no toilet paper currently because of the corona epidemic ( apparently that's the gold of modern times right now! ), go out into nature and collect some coltsfoot leaves for your butt needs 😂 it's definitely cheaper!

i really like their complex little blossoms.

walking along the banks of the back lake.

even though the sun was shining it was still cold af, which was probably the reason why we didn't stay for very long in any nature environments in general that day...




a cute little bench by the lake. i think it was on a little peninsula reaching into the front lake.

eventually we got back into the car and finally made it to our final destination: the chapel of notre-dame-du-haut in ronchamp. reading this title definitely holds nothing special to people 'not in the know', until you see the chapel and realize that this is not a typical construction for chapels of any kind. it looks sort of like a concrete mushroom with its white convex and concave walls and the much darker cantilevering rooftop.
the architect is a household name in france ( and world wide ), it was charles-édouard jeanneret-gris, known as le corbusier! le corbusier is basically the father of brutalism, an architectural style that is fulminantly minimal and 'brutal' and therefore really controversial even to this day. which doesn't mean that he wasn't an acclaimed architect, that was not the case, he was indeed one of the most influential architects in modern architecture and continues to influence the scene today.

talking about this chapel can't happen without mentioning another architect as well, renzo piano, who built the monastery of st. clare, part of the whole ensemble on the hill. this man, too is widely acknowlegded as an influential figure of the architectural scene, responsible for buildings like the shard in london, or the centre pompidou in paris.

as you can see, reading a name or title never quite tells you what lies behind, it might be a boring place or person ( or anything ), but it also might be something absolutely spectacular with a lot of cultural importance and influence.

so, without further ado, let's have a look at le corbusier's chapel of notre-dame-du-haut, buiilt from 1950 to 1955!

the chapel is situated on top of the hill bourlémont, which overlooks the region in various directions. you can see some peaks of the jura mountains and the vosges mountains, the saône valley and the belfort gap. before you reach the top of the hill you walk a little pathway that is part of a way of the cross. you will discover two other buildings designed by le corbusier, the chaplain's house and the pilgrim's house. here you see the pilgrim's house, which sits a little further down the chapel.

this is the view when you approach the chapel from the south. it is the main facade that you can see from far away. the building is made out of exposed concrete that was plastered with very coarse white roughcast. the rooftop is formed by two concrete shells that protrude a bit over the walls, forming a bit of a shelter. the southern facade's most distinct characteristic is of course the main tower and the curious-looking window front, which counts 27 totally different little sunken windows - something that is so completely different to already established churches, which often used big, grand windows to illuminate the interior majestically.

another favourite detail of mine is the main portal which is only opened during pilgrim days ( which i think are only on two days of the year, the 15th august & 8th september, which are both dedicated to st. mary ). it is made out of email work, solely created by le corbusier himself. the colourful vibrancy of this portal is a stark contrast to the white & grey chapel.

le corbusier designed the portal with stars, trees, hands, pathways & clouds. here you can also see the little windows and how no window equals one another. the chaotic arrangement was purposefully designed this way, probably to illustrate that life is chaos and chaos is the work of god? what i find truly remarkable about the chapel is the fact that le corbusier called himself an atheist and that he actually supported the worldview of pantheism way more. this chapel though, it's a catholic one. and this contrast, this juxtaposition makes it so interesting to me, as i can see where le corbusier with his worldview came from and where he implemented it in this building. i totally can get behind the chaotic window arrangement, because it is also part of my own view on religion and spirituality, which lies in atheism and a sense of the world that does not lie in the idolizing of one big god ( or any gods that is ). at the same time i think he found a really smart way to include his worldview into a catholic one, without being utterly disrespectful to it. i think believers in christ are really able to identify this church with their god, even though it is so unlike any place of worship they are used to and that use different design concepts, meticulously perfected over centuries. the paintings on the email portal are a clear evidence for this, as the symbols used here are completely universal and can be used for any religion and ideology that exists, not excluding them at all. that is the charm this chapel has on me, that it could also be a place of contemplation to any other human on earth, no matter where their spiritual or ideological home is.

the west front is almost undecorated. there is a fountain in front of it that also collects rain water from the roof ( do you see the water shoot? ). it is strictly sculptural, this part of the chapel, and the two towers enhance that a little more. you probably wonder why there are these slits and openings inside the towers facades. they let in light to illuminate oratories and are called suntraps.

the fountain.

we entered the chapel from the northern side, where there's a smaller portal, the so-called weekday portal. to be honest, i wondered how much light there would be inside when the windows were actually so tiny, but when we stepped into the chapel i was surprised that it wasn't as dark as i imagined it to be! though notre-dame-du-haut is not super bright inside, it was still illuminated very nicely by the light of the tiny windows on the southern facade and various openings inside the spires, and ALSO through the slots of the roof ( which is not placed ON the wall construction, but OVER it ). the roof actually is not a supporting element of the construction, it rests on ferroconcrete pillars instead and makes room for a tiny lightbeam gap between the walls and the roof to let in some more light. 

all of that created a really lovely interior feeling that didn't feel suffocating at all. it felt cozy and inviting. if you look a little closer you can make out tiny openings on the altar side. these are windows as well, symbolizing a starry sky! i found that detail incredibly awesome! on the right side of the altar is a door that leads outside to the outdoor altar (!). this is accentuated by the wide strip of light that flows into the interior, to me symbolizing that there's 'light at the end of the tunnel' or... hope when you step outside.

the church has two side chapels, curled up within two smaller church spires ( 20 meters high ) that are incorporated into the wall construction. sun traps let light in and create a very isolated & subdued atmosphere, kind of solemn.

another side chapel. this one is not one of the twin chapels on the northern side of the church, but the one that sits inside the main spire in the west ( 27 meters high ). the light here is a bit brighter and unobstructed.

when you look up you can see the design of the sun traps and how the walls reflect the light within. 

there's a really old madonna statue, put up inside one of the bigger windows leading out to the external altar. it's from the 17th century and a relict of the old chapel that stood here before it was destroyed in world war 2 by artillery barrage. notre-dame-du-haut has been a pilgrimage site for centuries before it became today's architectural gem, dating back to the 11th century. as a place of pilgrimage it functioned since the 15th century, though i don't know what the reason behind the pilgrimage was ( one reckons that in order to attract pilgrims, there needs to have happened a special kind of occurence, like a miracle or something ). it's also said that the hill had been a place of ritualistic importance to the celts.
i liked the silhouette of her and the child and the view out towards the still bare trees.

the glass windows throughout the chapel are all pretty simple, though they are often coloured in primary colours. every now and then some ornaments and forms are also part of the glass decorations designed by le corbusier ( he painted a lot and often added his drawings to his architectural creations ).

like you can see here, he added flowers and leaves to this little window. he also wrote important words on some windows that stem from the 'ave maria' or the litanies that were written to pay homage to the blessed virgin mary. these tiny additions seem so precious to me and bring out the playful and creative side of le corbusier's practice. just with the main portal, the brightness and the colourfulness of it creates such an interesting contrast to the otherwise 'sterile' looking appearance of the chapel.

a dove, the sun (?), la mer ( the sea ). isn't that such a simple, yet powerful image?

the altar room reveals some more hidden secrets. while the altar itself is really unornamental, and almost invisible, other parts surrounding it are not. the view towards the weekday entrance shows you what 'curled up' means when i talked about it on the side chapel pictures. they are basically separate rooms. the side chapel here is also different from the other two i showed you before, especially in the coloration. inside this one the walls are coloured in yellow and a deep orange, warming it up real nicely. also, there's a super minimal pulpit attached to the entry of this chapel. on the right side is what i would call a gallery, probably for people who are of higher importance ( one might have wished for a cancellation of such a structure, but alas, the 1950ies weren't revolutional in ALL aspects ^^; ). behind this gallery ( and the deep violet wall ) hides the sacristy, which is both accessible from the in- and the outside. the use of colours throughout the whole building is also something that struck me on a positive note, because it enlivens it so much! like... they are like little 'beam-me-ups' to me, jollying up the whole 'spiritual' experience.

oh, and another detail you will probably only notice after i made you aware of it: the floor of the building is not even, it is slightly concave, which adds to the feeling that this concrete structure actually feels more organic than artificial. despite concrete being such a harsh and bare building material, le corbusier managed to use it in such a way that it feels natural & elemental, like a dwelling made by more 'unsophisticated minds' ( or prehistoric humans ). i feel like that is the actual magic of notre-dame-du-haut, and the actual genius of le corbusier's work here.

my favourite window was this one containing the moon. i love its little dreamy face ❤

looking at the south wall, and admiring the window mosaic. even though the windows looks so small from the outside, the fact that they open up in a funnel-like fashion on the inside explains why the inside space is not as dark as you thought it would be. the light, just like in the side chapels, gets reflected inside the funnels and therefore distributes the light coming in more evenly. between, le corbusier actually didn't want to include a pewage inside the chapel, being of the perception that 'humans are ordained to pray while standing'. i think the chapel would have worked just as well without a pewage, but since his employers insisted on a pewage he installed one that wouldn't sidetrack from the overall picture. they remind me so much of the wooden chairs that marcel breuer designed in his early days!

i spied with my little eyes into that orange/red side chapel! so good, that colour! so full of fire!

the little altar inside the chapel. in the back are the stairs up to the concrete pulpit.

and a last view towards the enameled main portal and the biggest side chapel within the highest spire. that chapel actually is not entirely separated from the main space, but pretty much runs into it. i don't know if you noticed the stoups in various parts of the church, they were all put in the vicinity of the chapels. the enameled portal has different paintings here than the outside, it actually looks a little bit infernal and chaotic.

stepping outside the chapel again we were greeted by a little drizzle. this is the 'back side' of the building ( the north side and the east side ). it is also decked out with small windows ( that only illuminate the sacristy mainly ). what is most special about notre-dame-du-haut is the fact that it has an external altar! this exact altar you can see here, perfect for holding masses outside in fresh air. i think this is such an excellent idea, and i have the feeling it was kind of revolutionary in the 50ies to transfer these gatherings out of the church. i really would like to see more churches like this in general, i don't know of any other religious place that offers this option to worship outside in nature... it feels so... pagan? which is super awesome and just shows again that le corbusier actually had more in mind than a simple catholic church building, but actually a more pantheist vision.

the 'pyramid of freedom' was built to commemorate the victims and the battles of the second world war. the stones used in it were formerly part of the old chapel that was destroyed after the artillery fire.

from the plateau on which the chapel stands you can look down to the pilgrim's & chaplain's houses, also designed by le corbusier himself. they look entirely different to the organic shape of the chapel, but still are distinctly his work, evidenced by the use of colours and forms ( and concrete of course ). in the far back you are able to see the belfort gap and maybe even the first foothills of the jura mountains.

the external altar again, shielded by the cantilevered roof. there's everything you need to hold a mass: a baptistry, some alcoves for lithurgical equipment, candle holders, a cross, a gallery for the rich and the famous ( or whatever it was intented for ) and another pulpit. directly above the altar is a little alcove that houses the statue of st. mary and her child.

this is the view that is most known by people who speak of notre-dame-du-haut, basically the chocolate side of the building and the one that made me compare it to a mushroom ;) but you know... it's really quite an iconic building, right?

next, i wanted to take a look at the other two corbusier buildings, the ones for pilgrims and the chaplain. it's a little puzzling to me that le corbusier decided to build them in a non-organic way, i think it would've been kinda nice to sustain the appearance of the chapel in these buildings as well. but instead of mourning this fact, i have to say that the contrast also has a positive side, because on their own these little abodes are forming a separate little artwork and there is at least one organic element that ties these houses to the chapel, the grass rooftop. the cubic structures are embellished with polychrome geometric forms on the outside, and while i don't know what the interiors of the chaplain's house are like, the interiors of the pilgrim's house are an absolute delightful mixture of colours and forms. the way these houses are nestled into the hill provides another link to the chapel, they seem kind of embedded in the hill and from the chapel they seem like an extension of it, only distinguishable by the concrete walls and the triangles and rectangles on its facade.

kinda liked this corner, couldn't even exactly tell you why, as it apparently is nothing special? except of the perfectly weathered exposed concrete, the colour-blocking of the window opening, the grass on the roof and the cute little rain drain. in the back you can see the city of ronchamp and the vosges saônoises ( a part of the vosges mountains that is situated in the haute-saône region ).

i didn't exaggerate when i told you that the inside of the pilgrim's quarters were a delightful mixture of colours and forms. i mean, come on! look at that ground floor mosaic! look at the use of prime colours everywhere ( the yellow heater, the red ceiling, the blue window frames ) and tell me it's not a feast for the eyes. i was absolutely enamoured with the colourful interior design after the chapel on the hill was a bit more subdued ( even though prime colours were indeed a big part of it, too, only in less visible ways! ). the interior was also designed by le corbusier himself and showcase his signature style really well. he loved to play with forms and colours, though he mainly approached it from a functional & minimal level. after all, his work should be lived in and used in daily life, not put on a pedestal like in a museum. that's why i love these interiors so much, they glow and shine so welcoming and embracing, despite them being so functional and spartanic. and all of this just by being experimental and creative with very little forms and colours.

the decorational ground floor pulls through the whole shelter, even in the lavatory.

a peek into the mirror reveals a detail that might otherwise be overlooked: a clothes hook rack and shelf  in red.

throughout the shelter you can also find photographs of medieval iconography. they were intended to decorate the shelter from the beginning and were specifically selected by the architect.

there's a little platform outside the shelter, where pilgrim's and guests can sit down at concrete tables and rest for a bit, enjoying a really nice view down to ronchamp from here, and of course the surrounding landscapes. this way the architect picked up the concept of a pilgrim's shelter quite well, you can either sit down inside in case of rain, or outside if the weather allows it.

but a pilgrim's shelter wouldn't be a shelter if there weren't any lodgings, intented to be used by pilgrims who had a long way upon arrival or will have a long journey back home. i ADORED the colours in here, it turned the scraggy bunk bed situation into an actual enjoyable one.

stepping outside again, the facade with the big windows that let in a lot of light into the shelter captivates you also with the use of polychrome triangle plastering. another detail i really like here are the different structures of the window glass used, the upper part is clear and the lower one is texturized.

in the neighborhood of the pilgrim shelter you can find the chaplain's house as well, it sits right on the other side of the pathway that leads up to the chapel. the chaplain's house is not as creatively decorated as the pilgrim's shelter, but in its basic design it is equally constructed, just a tad bit smaller and more like an actual house to live in. judging from the car and the front garden situation, it is still used as a residence, which made me a little bit envious, because... it is a small edifice, and small living spaces are absolutely my cup of tea. as you can probably guess, you couldn't enter this house, but here's a video that gives you an insight ( beware, it is in french! ).


when you take a closer look at the facade you can see that there are rocks incorporated into the exposed concrete. these are actual remnants of some of the rocks that were used in the old chapel. they are a special kind of standstone that is called grés rose, because the rocks have a rose-coloured tint. you can find these rocks all over the vosges mountains, and they are said to be really good building material as they rarely have any fossils incorporated, giving them a finely granulated stone structure.

the front of the chaplain's house. you really have no clue how much i wanted to live in it... go figure out what my head screamed all the time upon seeing it.... 😅 

( it was: I WANNA LIVE HERE, I WANNA LIVE HERE, THIS IS A DREAM HOME, I WANNA LIVE HERE. well... if it wasn't so utterly exposed to constant streams of visitors, that is ^^; ).

the entry to the convent of st. claire.

as mentioned at the beginning of the exploration of notre-dame-du-haut, le corbusier was not the only one who was able to leave his footprint on the bourlémont hill. renzo piano, an italian star designer of international renown, was asked to build a convent on the site as well in 2006 in addition to a visitor's center. his design was widely discussed before it was built and it wasn't always anticipated to come to fruition. but, in the end in 2011 it was completeted and it now augments the site of notre-dame-du-haut. many people had big doubts that a project like this might destroy the work of art that is le corbusier's chapel, but in retrospect i think that the addition of the convent and the visitor's center actually adapts quite well into it all, despite obviously not really being inspired by it...

both buildings are dug into the hill, the convent being more hidden than the visitor's center. they are both executed in a very lowkey way ( almost indiscernible ) so as to not to deviate from the actual star of the hill, the chapel. but in their very own way they are works of art anway, despite their retention and their minimalist exterior of concrete, glass and metal. i think it's a sign of great abilities when you are able to craft a masterful building on a site where another virtuoso structure already exists, without taking away the charm of the one that stood there before. renzo piano did something quite honourable there, giving the nuns of the convent of sainte claire a home right next to a most remarkable church building and also giving space to the people who are interested in it culturally and religiously. and all of this in a really unpretentious way while at the same time maintaining its own assertiveness so absolutely unlike le corbusier's own work. 

we snuck inside the little oratory of the convent by accident - it actually started raining and we needed a bit of a shelter ( i think we were not supposed to be in there, i felt like an intruder 😂 ). the convent, as is custom, was furnished pretty sparsely, the most distinct elements being concrete and wood. it had a very clean and spruce atmosphere, one of simplicity. at the same time it was very elegant. i really liked the shadowplay inside the oratory and how it complemented the chairs ( produced by the well-known company VITRA ).

the view outside of the oratory reveals another favourite detail, a little indoor tree bed with citrus trees. it probably symbolizes something to the poor clares, something more profound, but for me it simply was a quirky extra.

the visitor's center is called 'porterie' and offers a place to forage for souvenirs, take a sip of coffee in a little cafe or gather around a fireplace to dive into the many books that the shop has to offer. there's also an auditorium inside, perfect for seminaries or workshops.

when i look back at these pictures now, in the middle of spring, i wonder how this building must look like when everything starts flowering, blooming and greening. i have the feeling that the cool sobriety of these structures turns into a welcoming interplay of nature and architecture. it makes me want to beam myself back and explore it all again.

we said goodbye to this remarkable site, me totally inspired and in awe and buzzing with excitement over it. i had wanted to visit notre-dame-du-haut before, but never came around to it, until we were so clueless about what to visit next that i practically urged my parents to finally check it out. and it was such a good decision. of course, together with our visit at the source of the planey river and the little pit stop at the lac des 7 chevaux, this day stays super memorable in my mind. when we drove down the street to ronchamp again we passed by another interesting place, an old winding tower that stands over a mine shaft.

the region of haute-saône is known to have rich deposits of charcoal and the city of ronchamp seems to have been one of the places where it was especially lucrative to mine for it. there are more remnants of this past strewn over the city, more shafts where they hauled loads of charcoal into the daylight and you can learn about the charcoal history in a museum in ronchamp as well. this winding tower is from 1924, and a listed monument of the 20th century. my dad and i were really interested in learning more about it, but we all were kind of defeated after being up and running the whole day, so we called it quits and decided to note this sight down for a different time. i really hope to check out this part of ronchamp's history soon, maybe, hopefully in autumn this year! there's just something about old industrial places that fascinates me endlessly, maybe i am secretly a steampunk loving creature?

well, if you made it this far, you finally reached the end of this massive post and i must applaud you. i always think that people disembark the 'reading ship' halfway through, since i often talk in length about many details in the places i've visited and how i relate to them. i try to keep it informative and easy to read for y'all, but sometimes i just really go on a tangent and take the liberty of delving into a more detailed write-up. also... researching for these kind of posts really is a lot of work and condensing all the information into small and easily understandable tidbits even more. i often need days to complete an article that can be read through in just 15 minutes. 

but you know what? even though i often curse this work ( especially when it takes days ), i still really like to do it, and get myself re-aquainted with the places i've visited through diligent research and fact-checking is kind of a hobby of mine now. i often learn a lot more through it than when i actually visited at that time! of course my first impressions of a place flow into these posts as well, sometimes even helping me connect loose parts in my memory back together and creating a new understanding. i kind of like that process a lot, and it makes me feel like there is always something new to learn, a new connection to make and new insights to gather to broaden my understanding of the world and how i relate to it.

we are slowly closing up the chapter of our france adventure in 2019, so until next time, thanks for reading!

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